What's more, you don't even have to pop a pile of pills to reap the skin benefits of vitamins. It's believed that topical application of these antioxidants (applying vitamin-enriched creams, lotions or serums directly to the skin) is the most effective way to reap their benefits.

TURNING BACK THE CLOCK

"We're still learning a lot about the benefits of vitamins when applied directly to the skin, but right now, what we know is that vitamins C and E have the ability to neutralize free radicals and fight the environmental damage that occurs to the skin," says Diana Bihova, M.D., a New York-based dermatologist affiliated with Columbia University's department of dermatology.

Environmental pollutants such as cigarette smoke and the sun's ultraviolet light expose skin to free radicals, unstable molecular fragments that are responsible for the physical aging and wrinkling of our skin. These free radicals eat away at the skin's dermis (the deepest, thickest layer of the skin) causing it to become thinner.

In his book, You Can Look Younger At Any Age (Henry Holt and Company, 1996), Nelson Lee Novick, M.D., associate clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine in New York City, likens the damaging effects of free radicals to the rusting of metal or the rapid browning of a cut apple. As Novick explains, antioxidants are the arch enemy of free radicals -- they are capable of preventing free radical formation on the skin's surface. Just as a protective coating on metal prevents rusting or a squeeze of lemon on a sliced apple prevents browning, antioxidants shield skin from environmental damage.

THE COLLAGEN CONNECTION

Wrinkles are caused by both exposure to environmental factors and exposure to birthdays. We know we can lessen the impact of the former (by wearing sunscreen, for example), but we're accustomed to thinking there's not much we can do about the latter. The exciting news about antioxidants is that they seem to both prevent future damage and repair existing damage.

"We know that wrinkling occurs when we age naturally or when we're exposed to free radicals because the dermis becomes thin and collagen and elastin (the fibers that give skin its structure and elasticity) production decreases," says Bihova. "What we've only recently discovered is vitamins C and E not only neutralize these free radicals, but they stimulate the skin's collagen production -- making a visible difference in the quality of the skin," she adds.

This, undoubtedly, is the biggest surprise and most important benefit in regard to what vitamin C and E enriched creams can do for skin. Collagen is the structural support system of the skin, much like the scaffolding of a building. Once this support system begins to weaken, wrinkling and sagging set in. Until the addition of antioxidants to moisturizers, there were no creams that had any effect on the production of collagen in the skin.

A PENETRATING QUESTION

The $25,000 question is whether or not these vitamin creams deliver antioxidants into the skin where they can effect structural change or merely sit on top of it. The answer may depend on who's doing the formulating. Effective antioxidant creams are high-tech stuff -- especially when the key ingredient is vitamin C.

"Vitamin C by itself may not be stable and it can only partially penetrate the skin," explains Victoria Rabiner, product developer for Zia Cosmetics. "To ensure maximum absorption and benefits, we use a stable form of vitamin C to which we add plant extracts and other antioxidants that stabilize, support and aid the penetration of vitamin C."

Some manufacturers solve the vitamin C absorption problem by avoiding it. Abkit, makers of Camocare's Intense Facial Therapy, doesn't put vitamin C in their formula. Instead, it features Alpha Lipotene, an antioxidant that, according to Abkit's clinical trials, fully penetrates the skin and enhances the activity of vitamins E and C.

"In the past, dermatologists would scoff at the idea that these antioxidants could penetrate the skin and do any good," says Bihova. "The molecules were thought to be too big to penetrate but the technology and formulations of these creams have improved to the point that some of these antioxidants do penetrate."

Depending upon the skill and ingredients with which a particular cream is formulated, it may or may not thoroughly penetrate. Because formulations vary, the best way to evaluate a cream's efficacy is to try it. According to Bihova, while the degree of improvement you might see in your skin could vary, some improvement can be expected.

THE SHADE VITAMIN

For those that persist with sunning sans sunscreen, it's believed that topical application of antioxidants may provide some damage control. According to Novick, vitamin E seems to be effective in blocking sunburn reactions. In a recent study, Novick explains, vitamin E was found to block the sunburn reaction even when applied eight hours after exposure and has been shown to have direct sunscreening properties when applied before sun exposure. In addition, topical application of vitamins E and C is believed to reduce redness and irritation caused by sunburns.

Despite these findings, though, vitamin E should be used topically with caution. Vitamin E is believed to be a more likely skin irritant than vitamin C and may cause skin allergies and rashes in some susceptible people. Those with sensitive skin should use skin-care products that contain vitamin E only after checking with a dermatologist.

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